BACKGROUND

I grew up in South Africa in an era where the only available knives on the market were Puma for fixed blades or Joseph Rogers for folders. While there is nothing wrong with either of these brands, it does not leave much of a choice to any knife enthusiast.

I think this fact and my passion for blades inspired me to start making my own knives almost 15 years ago. Although I still own that first knife of mine, I’m not going to show you a picture of it on this WEB site (it’s much too ugly – and I keep it only to remind myself from where I came). It was made of spring steel, and everything was done with hand-tools i.e. files and rasps.

Well, since then I started to acquire some basic knife-making tools, but I still lacked the skills to operate these machines effectively. Early in 2000, I decided to do the stock-removal course presented by Kevin Harvey (a South African knife maker of unquestionable repute – to access his WEB site, click here www.africut.co.za).

This was the best investment I ever made. Since then I’ve only had fun – every weekend is spent in my workshop making knives. If you decide to invest in one of my knives, you will not only contribute to my goal to make knives on a full time basis, but also in return you will get a knife made with a passion for perfection in both material and workmanship.

Personally, I like a knife to SIT in my hand. For this reason, I mostly make ‘non-dainty’ knives. Every knife is made to WORK, and work hard. My knife comes with a lifetime (yours or mine) guarantee, as long as you use it for the tool that it is – that is cutting, skinning stabbing etc. If you want a tool to pry loose mollusks from the ocean-bed, or to undo a screw, don’t use a knife …. it was not intended for that purpose.

I am sure if you have one of my knives in your possession, you will have as much pleasure showing it off and using it as I had in making it.

ABOUT THE BLADE STEEL I USE

The term “stainless” is used very loosely in the industry, and is not quite correct. It should rather be “stain-resistant”. Never the less, almost all stainless blade steels are very stain-resistant, and hold up very well, even with everyday use. From this you can gather that you DO need to take care of the blade, otherwise the steel might soon resemble a 15 year old kitchen sink. I recommend to NOT treating your blades with any type of oil, unless you are 100% sure it would not eventually stain the knife. Personally, I prefer to wipe the blade with pure acetone. This ensures removal of any oiliness, sweat, blood etc. Also don’t store your knife in the leather sheath. Most leathers are cured with substances containing all sorts of chemicals, which can permanently stain the knife if stored in the sheath for extended periods of time.

I mostly use 12C27 stainless (produced by Sandvik). My reasons are:

-         In un-hardened state, it works very easily.

-         After heat treatment, tempering and cryogenic treatment, the hardness measures to approx. 61 Rockwell. This is quite few points harder than most factory knives. This hardness level also gives the blade a good balance between edge holding and flexibility.

-         It makes an honest knife.

 Blade finish is your choice between 800 grit satin finish, mirror finish or sandblasted.

BOLSTERS, POMMELS AND PINNING

I prefer using 303-machine stainless steel for this purpose, because I found it to be the most stain- and scratch-resistant. It therefore requires little or no maintenance.

Brass and copper looks very attractive when freshly polished, but oxidizes very quickly, and also scratches easily, thus hi-maintenance. 

Personally I like to finish the bolsters and pommels to a 600 grit satin finish, because it does not show fingerprints as easily, but again this is your choice.

 HANDLE MATERIAL 

My personal preference is African hardwoods like red-bush willow, Leadwood, wild olive, zebrawood etc. But (at an extra charge) I also use giraffe shinbone, warthog tusk and most African antelope horns. On request, I will also use micarta or G10.

When using wood, I only use interesting pieces, not just straight grained wood, unless requested by customer.